Video: iGUIDE Masterclass - How to Shoot, Stitch and draft an iGUIDE16825
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|Video: iGUIDE Masterclass - Shoot, stitch and draft an iGUIDE | video courtesy of the iGUIDE YouTube Channel | 27 April 2022
Transcript (video above)
Samuel Ryan: Hello. Hi. If anybody who couldn't let me know that you can hear me in the chat, that would be fantastic. I haven't done a Zoom webinar for a while, so give me a second to get everything set back. If you have any questions, please put them in the question answer session. As I go through some pops up on your mind, just asking the question on answer section.
Once I finished and I will go through your questions one by one. Let's get going. This is a masterclass on how to shoot, stitch together and then upload and I guide for drafting. This will be specific to standard or premium archives. The process mostly the same for a Radix, but we'll mostly be just like standard and premium my guides.
We're going to take through that. Let's start in settings. The first thing you want to do is this is for new people, if you've just received your system, is make sure that auto align is set to continue on HDR, one that basically set to external Rico for basic I guides. For more complex stuff, you can change the HTML mode. That's something that we'll probably cover in this one.
This will be the basic bathroom. You want the camera 360 camera volume here.
Samuel Ryan: This is specific to the Planix. When you're using the Planix, you go and hide yourself around the corner, you can hear the Theta, make it six beeps cycle and trails, so it doesn't drill up and drill down. Then after that, you can go pick up the system, even if it says on your smart device processing, Once you've heard those trills, you can go and pick up the system.
Having this volume ten very high is great because you know that you've had that it's completed. You can go into the room, pick up the system, and start heading towards your next location. Having not too high camera volume is great. You can choose your units, centimeters or inches, whichever you prefer. Wi-Fi band, we do recommend five gigahertz and it has the best strength over short distance.
As you'll never really going up far away, this is the best way to have it, so that keeps that connection and everything's quicker. If you're in Europe, then you need to select your region. Five gigahertz has limited channels for Europe specifically, you'd have to come down here and select which country you're in. This is automatically programmed to limit that as per country laws.
Access 0.90, don't need to change this, it's your Wi-Fi password. You can change these things if you wish. But if you forget your password, you're going to have to do a full reset from underneath the camera. I would only change this if it's something you are guaranteed to remember. The power off timeout is how long you can leave the Planix until it automatically turns off.
So this is left to 13 minutes, so we'll shut down. Now if you know, there's never a point where you wait for 30 minutes before switching off, you could probably change that to five or ten. It'll save a little bit about power in the long run. Or you can just manually set it by yourself by pressing the button on the front or the power off button in here. Moving onto these next parts, we have eject USB drive.
That is basically as it sounds. When the system is on and you click this, you have to wait a couple of minutes. Well, work on it, I mean in a couple of seconds, the USB drive will be ejected and then it'll be safe to remove. What's even safer, is just powering off the system, wait until let's shut down and then removing it. Calibrate compass.
You won't really need to do this. If you do find the need to do it, click on here in this little video that shows you what to do. It's very simple. Same for the the airline 360 camera. If you bought a core system, and you've added a Theta that it was your own, it might be a good idea to go through this. What this does, is it aligns to the lens center, to the exact area you're looking at on the screen.
If I was to point to a corner here and take an image what we want, it's that corner to line up with the column on the data here. I point this corner. Does it hit the corner? Yes, it does. This allows you to align that. It's just a rotation based thing. That's pretty good to do if you've just added your Theta to a core. Another thing to do is if you remove your theta and you use it individually on its own.
Then it's a good idea to align the feces of camera just to make sure everything's good. You only need to do this when removing or adding the Theta back on. It doesn't need to be something that's done all the time. Format USB drive will format the USB drive. Quite simple. It will delete everything and format it as fact 32, I believe.
Update system file is not required by you unless you bought a core and then you want to update that to a Pro, which means you'd have to send the system in any way. You probably will never use this. The next important things on this page though, is the update firmware button. We will know relatively often every three to four months release of firmware update.
Especially we find a fixed and this is where you would do that. You just click on update firmware The firmware can be found at goiGuide.com/downloads. It'll download that file. Make sure it has the same naming convention. Move it to USB drive and upload it here because it's update firmware. Then you can reset everything here, reset to factory settings.
If you are contacting support, on the support desk with an issue to do with your system, it's very handy if you can provide us with all this information. The system information here, the firmware version, the system serial number, the 360 camera model, the 360 camera firmware version, and your serial number again. For this, sorry, the 360 serial number.
Sometimes we don't need the Theta information, but we do need to know what the firmware version is. All this information is extremely handy when opening a portal ticket.
Samuel Ryan: Save system log, very convenient too. If you come across an error on the system and it's providing an error message and you're struggling to can move past it, at that point, I would call us if you're on-site or if you managed to get past the error, but still want to figure out what's going on with it, you guys to check it for you, you save the system log when the error happens.
That's going to be very useful for our team and our developers team to decide for what's going on with your system. We can give you a few tips there that could have been just like a lot of time at tend to be a slight glitch with network activity. Just making sure that you are connected to the right network can resolve many of the issues.
It's going to keep plowing through. Right now I'm going to emulate a project.
Samuel Ryan: Let's say this I think is don't forget to save these settings as well. I want you to change them. This is an ambulate so it can't do some things, it cannot do others. We're going to call this master class project. We're going to get an exterior wall thickness of eight. I'm going to click "Create". This is so you'll start point main floor.
The full name would genuinely be the main floor. You can start wherever you like. But the purpose of taking through this, I'll do that, main floor, exterior wall thickness. You can change this here. If it's different, just click "Create". Going to take us to the main floor as you can see there's no pano, only this laser data which can be quite confusing at first. Let me just close some things down here.
This pano data here that you're seeing, this is a live view of what the system sees. When you first put the camera down, you can confirm, oh, it looks like the laser is working fine. There's no problems. This is what your system is seeing in a live view. You could turn this on if you like saying it in the system settings too. Generally though you don't need it on.
Then we're going to hit "Capture" button, a process a scan. Once that scan is in process, as you can see, this is what the data has been collected. See there's lots of gaps, so you need to fill that out in an orderly manner. Now, line of sight is important when taking panos so you must be able to see the last location you took a scan when you take your next scan.
This is going to follow through as we go through this simulation here. Stopping in doorways is very useful. It gives people a stopping point when they're actually doing the iGuide. If you do a nice flow of Panorama images, nice flow of scans, you give people a good path to go through as you are scanning. This is about every two meters apart also.
As you can see, for good example, this scan does not seem to have aligned properly. As you can see over here, the line is offset and the line here is offset If you notice this on site and then the system has not correctly placed your scan, click the align button in the left-hand corner.
Samuel Ryan: You can see I'm just grabbing this. You can manually, drag it around, put it in place. This is where it was. This is where needs to be before and after, before and after. That's like an AI task, isn't it? Number one or number two? Within your actual system, you can click, snap two. Snap does not work for me because this is an emulator.
You click snap, but we'll try number of different locations and most likely find it for you. Then click "Save" and you can continue with your process. You might have to click the top button here. The top right hand corner for your back to display view. This toggle at the top here just takes you through. No, that's my full screen panel. That's my full-screen scan data. This is a split view. That's all that does.
Let's go to the next shot. As you can see down here, we're going to probably go into the kitchen area between an extra scan down there and then into the kitchen doorway. This person who is taking a scan in every doorway, which is great because it gives people a line of sight and it gives people a path to follow on the actual tour itself.
The more the merrier when it comes to scans and you can always disabled access ones later on. The whole point is to gather as much data as possible. But at the same time make it as smooth flowing as possible. We're going to keep on going through this process and we'll see. In fact, we don't need to see the pano image. We can see the actual data building out itself.
You can see what you're looking for is to make sure that all the edges are filled in. Slowly filling in the ground floor, hitting every wall possible. When we go into the living area here, the family room, I'll go in there and a second, we can see it slowly starting to fill this corner in different views.
Samuel Ryan: It starts to fill out. Our aim is to try and produce flawless I guide by covering every wall surface. And you can see that's what's happening now.
Samuel Ryan: You can see as well that is like this. Fill data with these, all these different shapes and shades. This is showing you how much of the area is filled in. As we can see here, this is completely black. I know that this is because there's a Phrygian. The way in this day tool navigate captured. You can see the walls of completely black.
This is a really good indicator to tell you how I captured all the spaces. Look for any black data within this view here. Any areas that are black, you probably need to fill in. But there's a good chance this is a fridge is a coverage. This is the status for example, this is the understands area. This is obviously a wall with a beam. You can see the walls here, so that's pretty straightforward.
But anyway, there's a big square that might be black or it might be a closet or a cupboard that you've missed and you need to fill that in ideally. Especially on next area. Within the exterior areas here you can see that it's no data on this wall and it shoots off somewhere and then comes back in. That's because there's a mirror here.
And the laser worked with light, refracting the light from the other corner, so you're getting like a flip diversion here. Don't worry about this. Don't worry about this window here. And drafting team is very used to dealing with these. This has been compensated for. Somebody mentioned to me recently that there is another system that you have to mock windows and mirrors width.
You don't have to do that. Our drafting team will see that it's a mirror in and can assume that that's good to go. It's the final panel here is this last room because you can see there's not a lot of overlapping data. But it was just about enough. What I'm talking about, areas with black space. You can see this here. We zoom out. Big missing space here. This is a closet.
It was missed in this particular iodide. And that's why I like using it. Just because you're going to look in this scenario, this one scenario where there's one panel on the other side, there's a good chance we can draft how deep that closet is at least. Ideally, we need that to be opened because you don't often get this. If this panel didn't exist, this would be a completely missing space.
This whole area who would not be able to drop draft this plaza in because we don't know how deep in it. That's just an FYI. Open closets, open shower curtains of bathtubs. You can always disable those panels afterwards. Do your beauty shot with everything closed and then open things up, open closet to open wardrobes so that we can get that data and how deep it goes. Very important on exterior walls.
Samuel Ryan: This is the ground floor. Once this is completed, you will go to floor, add a new floor. First floor, click Create. And then you would start on the second floor of the first floor, or the basement or whichever you want to do next. This will lead you on this the same process. Make sure you take panels down the hallways.
Make sure you take panels in doorways just so that people have gotten a nice flowing like trail to go through. It just leads them through the house and they can see everything quite neatly.
Samuel Ryan: Once it's completed in survey, you will take this data and you will put it into, I'm just going back to the floor so you can see. You'll put it into stitch, so to open a project from stitch, you click the house and the top left-hand corner which is open, we're going to discard the changes in, and we're going to select, this is your project name, so 1, 2, 3, where you have your addresses.
Do you've called the project or whatever project name you've called it. Dave's house fills house for x filter. I don't know what you call it generally people use the address, and so very much individualized identifier. We select this, it'll load it in. And because I've aligned this previously, this is what it looks like. As you can see, there's a miss rotation.
The rotation doesn't match here. That's something you can do yourself by selecting all of the panels. You can right-click with your mouse button, and rotate like this. This is what it looked like. Then if I grab that with my right-click, after selecting a little patterns in this space, I can move it with my mouse, spin it around. I can left-click and drag it. I can zoom in with my mouse wheel.
As you can see, this isn't quite straight. Now that's not a worry for you guys, the drafting team both straighten it all out. But you can click this square root flow tool at the top. That's going to perfect it right there, so quickly, I didn't even see it happen. Everything is squared up. Now, what you want to look for as those panel over here that was offset.
And so mind you, I didn't fix that on site. And it was like this. You can see here that there's some strange readings right there. This green line. You can see that it's out of place. It doesn't quite look right. The jigsaw is not together fully. With this being this close, you can press 3 on your keyboard or you press the magnet at the top.
And that is fine tuned selected scams, we click that, it's going to pop it into place where you. We go far away, you can see it's struggling to find a place where to go with that mode, number 3. We want to do next is if it's too far away, press number 2. Number 2 will scan all of the data and find a matching point for you. Number 3 does not work because it's not close enough.
Number 2 has placed it. No matter which angle it's on. You can see it's upside down and sometimes it's not in the right place, it's not even on the right side of the house. Number 2 is going to find its best fit. Remove another piece here and put it right there. You can see that has not aligned, number 2 and it found it.
Rotate it press number 3, number 3 is never going to find it because it's not in the right rotation. Number 3 doesn't check rotation. It just checks to snap to the closest, so number 3, this should sound like that. Number 2 will find its correct location, rotation on everything.
Samuel Ryan: That's number two. Number one is a different one all together, so number one on the keyboard or the wizard, like the little magic one. This one will completely tear apart your eye guide, and put it together piece by piece, so it's like starting a puzzle from fresh. What we can see is we can walk it through this, and say yes, that looks at the right location, you can see that the green, and the blue lines are overlapping correctly.
You can click ''Yes'' to that one, we can click ''yes'' to this one, we can see that it's starting to build it out, and it is the right location. It makes sense to be there? Yes, so it's like building a jigsaw here, yes. We can keep clicking ''yes''. For this eye guide I know at this point has a good chance because of the amount of overlapping data, that it's going to complete it.
I'm going to click ''yes'' to all, and you can see the stitch did this all by itself, everything is in the correct location. Now, if it doesn't do this, it's a good chance that you didn't get enough overlapping data. Let me quickly just explained overlapping data again for you, so we have an eye guide. If we have this data here, we have a line of sight to that corner there.
So that is overlapping data, so the data overlaps at a certain point, it will snap. You just have to have this line of sight from one to the other, and has to be a reasonable distance, it can't be like 10 meters,15 meters apart, the data is going to get to scattered them. But as long as you have something that has common data, you can see down here, even at this distance here we have some overlapping data in the bottom corner, it looks the same.
Samuel Ryan: That's going to snap into place, now this isn't giving a great amount of information to the drafters, you kind of getting just about what you need. That's not really ideal for 3D tool, especially because you want people to be able to walk around, and view the whole place in 360. This also is very limited for the drafting team, they can probably draft most of things like this.
But it's not ideal, it really isn't. I know there's some people that do one scan per room, that can be done depending on the size of the room. Generally bedrooms, you want to take two scans, I would say a minimum of two unless it's like this bathroom. Let's just undo this bathroom here you can tell that it's small, nice thick lines on the data for the laser data, that's plenty for this once more room.
If we go to here, we can see that there's plenty in this room too, we don't really need this one, but it's really nice to have these two different angles, and just reinforced the data. Sorry, I pressed to that. We're doubling down on the amount of data overlap, it just makes things a bit more solid, and confirms things from different angles for the team.
One scan in the middle of this room would probably do, but it doesn't mean that it's going to be a great tool. You're going to have one view of a panorama coming in here, and one going out, so your data from this room to another room for example. Let's do this, and then, which was another one that has last slide, this one doesn't quite have line of sight, sits around about that.
It's just not quite good enough, it might snap? No. You have to go through a wall to get to it, and it's a bit clunky. Introducing more scans allows you a 3D tool to flow better, as well as giving you overlapping data, and the drafting team more data to walk through it.
Samuel Ryan: Considering each scan takes about I don't know 30 seconds or so,
Samuel Ryan: and that's including walking from place to place, I would just get those extra ones. Once you got to stitch there is two things you must check for overlapping scans, and certain the initial panel. To right click here, and click on set as initial panel, that tends to be the one people choose is the [inaudible 00:24:08], and you can set the initial angle for this in here, so we click the π over here.L
This signifies choosing the angle of the panel, so we kind of want to introduce people, and you don't want them to see the door immediately, so maybe a view like this to start or maybe you want to share them a little bit of that door way. When they open it, this is what they would see, something like this. You don't have to do this without rescan, but you can do if you wish, so you can go from scan to scan and set the initial angle, I claim speak of why you want people to go. This can help to lead people in a direction or to show off a specific thing as soon as they get to the scan.
Samuel Ryan: You can do this if you wish, and go through, and set the initial angle or you can do this later on in the portal, but because this is a 360 view, there's a good chance people are going to spin around anyway, and have a look. This just gives you the opportunity to do a little bit of customization, so as long as they are set, you can generally produce the eye guide, and see what this does. If I go to explore now,
Samuel Ryan: so once it's created, so you make an error message to disable an overlapping panel. What that means is that you've got two panels enabled on top of each other. Can you guys still hear me? My computer just did something weird, it looks like the microphone is activating. What it means is that you've got two scans enabled that overlap.
We can't have scans that overlap within 50 centimeters because there's no way to differentiate them on the actual eye guide. What you'd have to do is highlight these are overlapping scans, I can emulate this error message, spare me a second. If I put scan here overlapping, don't mind the data, put two scams on top of each other here.
When we explore, see this highlighted scans are close to the 19.7 inches, adjust position or disabled all but one. This link will take you to a video on how to do this, on how to deal with it, but it's pretty straightforward, we click ''Cancel''. We can see that these two scans highlighted are overlapping, and they are both enabled.
So what we do is we simply disabled one. An explore no error message, as you can see here. Now that's in the wrong place, I'll was just to show you guys, that's all you need to do is simply disabled one of the highlights scans. Generally this happens when you've opened closets in a bedroom, and you've left the system in the same place, so it's been left in the same place.
You've taken two scans in the same position; one with the closet open, one with closes closed. That's the scenario that you can recommend to you for that. Just to save the disabled the closet open one.
Samuel Ryan: Once it's exported, you can click on Create iGUIDE. What this is going to do is open the PLANIX data here. This is the location where your PLANIX state exists. I'm just going to minimize. I will take you to the iGUIDE creation page. I'll take you to creating an iGUIDE. This will open up also.
Samuel Ryan: What you can do is you can go through. I'm just going to change the signs of this. You can go through select your property industry. This would select residential for homes. Standard or premium. Premium have premium objects detailed in the floor plans such as washers, driers, sinks, bathtubs, showers, toilets, etc.
We'll go for premium just because I like these extra features, free atoms, you can leave them paid, leave them on, enter property address. We'll pick a random address because it's not staying in that one. Pick your address, check. That looks like it's correct. Select, add your agent branding, if you wish, you can do this later as well.
Just went through my test banner on any of these tests ones. In people you can through and you take who you want to have access to the iGUIDE. Here, you could report subscribers, so, iGUIDE manager, that's yourself. Or iGUDE editors, excluding the manager so you can disable it if you don't want the managers to get it, or the editors.
Notify the banner owner. Somebody else who owns a banner might need notifying. I didn't know why that would be used, but I can't think of a scenario myself right now. Then all e-mails from the agent's banner. Any e-mail you enter in your agent branding banner here, you can subscribe anybody to that. That's what you typically do to send the report to your client, the realtor.
Samuel Ryan: You can add editors. You can add a primary contact. There's more details on that in the knowledge base. Analytic subscribers, typically you only need the banner owner and the manager. Some people don't like to get them, some people do, that's your own choice. Then you would upload the data.
Because it had opened the data for me here, I can take this and I can drag this up and drop on here. That's ready for upload. This is also where you can upload gallery images all in one go. Now if you don't have the data yet, which is why a lot of places do. As you have an admin team bucket the office, they can create the iGUIDE without the data.
And then your editor or your photographer can later on come in and upload it. You can have everything setup. When the photographer gets home, all they have to do is upload this to the iGUIDE later on. You don't need the data to create the iGUIDE placeholder. Then you upload the gallery images. You have advanced options here as well, you can include a branded video and an unbranded video link.
You can confirm the iGUIDE URL. If this was, for example, a commercial property and you were doing Jennings Cafe, I didn't know why, but you could use that URL here after I got it, and you can see that's available by the green tick. You can customize the URL as long as it is a one-off, so [inaudible 00:31:38] The Start options, I don't think you really need to worry about too much.
Your measurement standard will be selected based upon, I think it bases upon the area that you select your property address, so for example, if was to select Twin of America, this might set it to unseen instead of Rekha, sorry, in DUS. Whereas if as an output it would definitely select it as RMS. As more details on that, on the knowledge base articles too. You can set it is protected.
This means that only people with an account on the iGUIDE portal and added to the list of viewers can see this, so at some level of protection, if you don't particularly need to know about everyone knew. But feel free to look on our knowledge base for further details. Less important here, I quite like this new one that we have, the Zoom Flow Plan, two walls.
What this will do is if you've taken exterior PAN-OS way away from the property, so you went down the garden and you took some PAN-OS, and you went down the front driveway or the side of the house. What this does is it ignores those PAN-OS and puts your iGUIDE and the actual drafted data as big as possible. Now sometimes you don't want to use this and sometimes you do.
The only time you want to use this is if you've got a lot of PAN-OS a long distance away from the actual house itself that's being drafted. Because you're drafted property is going to be small on screen. This will allow that to zoom in, but you're not going to see these PAN-OS on screen. You'd have to navigate to them naturally through the 3D toll.
Samuel Ryan: After all this, we would click, Create iGUIDE and upload. Then we have a completely different iGUIDE than this one to go through what it would look like on the portal. Once it's on the portal and it's been drafted by our team, which is next business day, next working day, you get go to edit view here.You get to edit here. Allow me to show you that Zoom floor plan, two walls option.
You can see that it's zoomed in as much as possible. Let's make this full screen now. It's zoomed in as much as possible to the walls. If I remove this, click Save, you can see, is it because I set it as well?
Samuel Ryan: There you go. You can see it's not zooming into the walls. You can see this button here. Setting it to zoom to the walls by ticking button. We'll animate and zoom in when you open the guide.
Samuel Ryan: It's just not doing it knob because of hashing I believe. There's plenty you can do in the portal. You can change the title, so for that example I gave before. If it's commercial, you can change it to title to Jenny's cafe, and this is what is cached by Google. This title here is what's cached by Google search?
So if you wanted it to be searchable when people go to Jenny's cafe, this is where you change the name here. You can put the naming and the address if you wish. That's what's going to be cached by Google search. I think I've covered everything, so let's go to the question and answers. I see a lot of you ask a few questions in the chat.
If I miss them, please put them in the question and answer, but there doesn't seem to be too many, so let's quickly get through them. Can we scan with people in a restaurant? If there's people in the restaurant, it's a good idea to blur out their faces on the panoramas afterwards. But sure, as long as they're not moving too much. There could be people in there.
It's just a matter of a privacy issue after that. Generally, we want to blur people's faces out. We haven't asked that consent. Just as a general Internet pool. When you're using the drop-down HDL modes, it does take longer. The scenario I was talking about is when only the External Vico mode is chosen. If you choose a different HDL type, it can take longer and you do have to wait to pick up the system.
You have to wait for the processing to finish. That's because it's taking multiple images with the Theta and blending them. The trill that you hear doesn't quite signify that it's finished. When you choose a different HDL mode than off or Rico, you do have to wait until the processing is finished. Thank you for bringing that up, that's good to point out. Is this all in the app? Yes.
This is all in the survey app. It's not technically an app that you would download on Google Play or the iOS store or the Apple Store. This is connected to via an IP address in your browser. Once you turn the Planix on, and you've connected to the Wi-Fi. You would type in an IP address to get to survey. It's all posted on the system so that you'd never have to update your phone with the latest version of survey.
It's all on our system. Ryan asks, when we are using our branded logo, is there a way to adjust the size was shown on the floor? I feel like the 1024 pixels seem too large in smaller rooms, so what you can do, if I go to the iGUIDE here. I don't know if I've got a good example of this here. I've got this silly Phoenix logo that I stole from somewhere.
This isn't at 1024 by 1024. This is a PNG and the circle itself is actually 900 by 900 pixels. That cannot be changed, so what you can do with the Planix? As long as the Planix is perfectly level and stable, you can reduce this. You can do some practice and reduced to see how much of it you want to cover. If you find that you can get away with 850 by 850 on the cycle, then great.
The problem is the image itself, so the PNG you provide has to be a square, a 1024 by 1024. What I would do is in Photoshop or if you're using something similar is reduced the cycle size only and keep the main image Canvas size at 1024 by 1024 with a transparent background and save as a PNG. I hope that makes sense. We cannot size it by room.
So if we go into this laundry, it is a little larger and heavier than it would be saying in the living room. Just because of dimensions of space. It's not really any bigger. It just looks smaller because the walls are farther away. We can't adjust that automatically. You can't set like a Palo size per room, but what you can do is reduce the overall image size of this.
Assumed. Some people do quite cool things where they actually have it as a blood image and even smaller logo. To blur the Planix out. You can see what's under there. Just a smaller logo that they put on that. How would you blur faces? Once the system has exported your data or before you export your data, and you move everything to your computer.
You can do this before or after. With the Planix, you're doing a single-shot mode, you will get one image like this, so what you would do is you'd pop this into Photoshop. You'd use a blurring or pixelation tool to do that. Save the image as it is, don't change anything else, and then that image is what will get exported to your eye guide. You do this after the fact.
By going into here, so we're going to replace Palo images here. We can select an image. Scroll down. Yeah. That's the image I want download the image, edit it, and re-upload here, so is quite straightforward. Replace Palo images here after the fact, and then edit the H1 and the H2 images before you upload it. It's two different methods.
Samuel Ryan: There is not a blur option yet. If you think that would be helpful, feel free to post that on our suggestion forum. If you go to forums.iguide.com. I'm not logged in so I can't see the operator one, but there should be once you're logged in. A feature suggestion forum here. I'll paste that in the chat so you have the link to our forums. There's a feature suggestion. Feel free to pop that in there. All ideas are welcome.
Samuel Ryan: How long did it take to take a picture? With the basic HDL mode? It takes probably 3 to 4 seconds to actually take a picture without being on the different HDL modes. Once it's on the basic External Rico, or it's off for HDL. It takes about 3 to 4 seconds. With these ones on, it really depends on what level of EV you go for like a minus 5 plus 2 takes a little while to produce.
But still around about 10 to 15 seconds, including the processing. Whereas the basic one takes probably 3 seconds before you hear the bleeps, 54 seconds and then a further 5 seconds to fully produce it, so about maybe between 8 and 10 seconds to produce a scan.It's pretty quicker overall. I knew that I did in my house when we were first testing the Planix.
My house isn't very large it there's 1,400 square foot, and it took me with adequate pan-OS, with line of sight and considering where the placement was, about 7.5 minutes to do the whole house? I think that was 35 scans roughly. Bruno asks, how can I remove all references of the URL and use my own URL. The only way to do that would be a URL redirection, so that your iguide.com is not customizable.
You would have to use a redirection tool through the Internet, so that you could put your own URL on top of that. To any other thing you could do is embedded within your own website. We do have an embedding tool. If you wish to embed the iGUIDE completely into your site, come to the iGUIDE page here.
Choose which view, so you can edit here, and then on the left-hand side you've got this embedding tool. You can have it responsive, small, medium, large or custom. If we look down here, this is a preview, so if we wanted it 1,900,
Samuel Ryan: mind you copy this code. If you know what you're doing with creating a websites, so put it into your own website. That way you don't really see the iGUIDE URL, but you can still use the iGUIDE.
Samuel Ryan: That's your two options. Is it a URL redirect or embedded?
Samuel Ryan: From Desi, hope I pronounced that right. Desi you say you must see the camera from the last column. When I forgot a room or closet, can I go back and shoot the closet? You absolutely can. What will happen is if you notice on site, so if you don't notice some insight that you've missed something, but you notice and stitch later on.
Say for example, oops, we miss that room down here. I'm like, I know there's a room by that I missed. You can either have the eye guide published as is, and then have us add the missing space later when you collect it. You can start a new project. You'd get a scan exactly where I just moved this come from. You'd have a scan done outside the bathroom and then a scan done in the bathroom.
These two scans here, 20 and 21, let's use green ones. You would take these, then you provide us with those kinds. We can add that for you later on, at a later date. Or what you can do is little trickier. But if we open the folder here, we can see that the data is set in a very specific order. I guess my Q&A materials folder, and we go into panic state.
This would be the title of the project. Typically the address. Double-click on the main floor. You can see each panel has its own folder. What you can then do is drag and drop the extra two Pi halves into here. Then right-click on the project and re-import it. I'll reimport all of the extra images for you.
Samuel Ryan: When you reimport it will reset so be aware. There's those two methods, is contacting us and saying, hey. We will contact you and say there's a missing space. However, the eye guide can be published as is, or we cannot publish the eye guide because it's missing space is too crucial. You'll be given two options. In the first instance you can publish as is and add the missing space later.
You can put the I guide on hold, go get the missing spaces provide it to us and we'll add it before it's even published. I did and after it's published, I'll send you an update. There's multiple ways of doing that. What I'd suggest is try not to miss a space in the first instance. That's probably better than any of the above.
Well, so what is the difference between survey to project? It's technically the same thing. Survey is what we referred to as our program, so the app in quotation marks. Survey is on camera app that goes through and allows you to document a property. That's what survey is. You all surveying the property, that's called survey.
Your project doesn't as a whole is a project file, so that project file I was showing you earlier. This would be considered the project itself. This is your project file.
Samuel Ryan: To copy the whole project from your USB drive to your computer. Bruno, which HDR mode produces the best quality pictures? That is entirely dependent on the situation. If you all buy a bright window, for example, here. As you can see the window is a little blown out, but not too much. It's really hard to find an example on this one.
This is a very low light outside day. If that's blown out, for example, what you'd want to do is change the EV value to maybe like a minus three plus three or minus one plus one. The minus one is reducing the brightness. A plus one is increasing the shadows, the darkness. When you're using a minus five plus two, you're really, really reducing the highlights.
The white when taking the image in your upping the shadows, and that's basically what it does like you would do on a camera yourself to set the HDR bracketing. It's very much situation dependent. Typically within a house on a normal day where it's not too bright, it's an average day, you can probably get around using external Rico mode the whole way through.
If you'd like a little bit of reduction and a little bit of increase, then I'd use the minus one plus one. These are going to take a little bit longer to produce though, because they are being processed by our system and not by the Theta. Because they're custom modes. What I would do is take one shot with every mode.
Visually you'll, yourself see when it's done so you can remember. That's how I learn best by doing and seeing what the results are. Oh, so that's what that did, that's what that did, and that's what that did. As long as you remember the order which you took them and you can review them later. Ryan, that's a good question.
If we create two areas, main floor and test data, that may be sharing some of the outdoor panels. Are we are able to move which outdoor ponds as shown, on which floor? Yeah, You can do that here. If you've got two floors, so we add a floor here, what you can do is like, oh, I want these panels here, this one, oh and this one and this one, I want that on this new flow.
But you can just drag and drop them. Typically though, if it's on the same level, you can keep it together. If you have a balcony or something, you want to keep the balcony. You want to keep the outdoor panels on the main floor so it doesn't look weird with the transition between the high ways mainly.
You want to keep things on the same level. If you're doing balcony shot and you've got a drone maybe, say for example, this was a balcony and you had a drone or the back garden, we're drawing an image of the crop back on at about the balcony level, that'd be a really cool image to pop just outside here. Because you can add your own user poems, drone images to an e-guide.
How many scans can we do? As many as you like. For a standard die guide you are charged on billable drafted area, so your available square footage. You cannot draft it on how many panels you took. They're are built on how many panels you took. You can take as many as you want. How do you position the outside scans? Great question.
This one doesn't have one. But say for example, we had some panels PAN-OS of the driveway. I'll be very quick here. Say we had some PAN-OS of the path walking up, we'd have a product down here, here, and here, and as you're taking that data, because you still got the laser on, it's going to be hitting the exterior wall. They'll start snapping to each other immediately.
What you want to do is when you get to the door here, this was a panel on the doorstep right here. Open the doors of the front, open the front doors and take a scanner with the doors open and the doors closed. What that's going to do is it's going to give you that overlapping laser data so when you come into the house, the interior of the house is going to snap to the exterior panel you took.
It's going to be perfectly placed for walking through the house. You could do that up at the back, the same as well. This backdoor here, you can see this doors, if you open this door, go outside, take a panel, there's going to be snackable data in here. Let me just continue through, and its auto placed and it looks great. I love it when people take exterior panels.
That is a way to show you what is being scanned before you shoot it. If you turn on, always show lighter scan and save that. You go back to your project, yeah, your project, you can see this is an emulator. Don't trust this. You can see that the green line is always showing. You can see that in a live environment all the time right now.
You can turn that on so you can see what the scan data is picking up. I don't think this live data auto aligns, so it might just be in the middle of the screen. But if you have the site to see, that's good. I can see that that's going to overlap and you have the ability to see that jigsaw puzzle. In a live environment, a lot of people do not, a lot of people do. Then you can leave this on.
It's going to always be green so that it's less confusing. Well, thank you everybody for coming today. There's a few things that didn't get to mention, but that's okay. It's not really relevant to this. This webinar I think is recorded. If they deem it good enough, if they deem it worthy, they will put this up on the MasterClass site so that you can watch this again later today. Everybody, well, thank you for your time. I hope it goes some usefulness out of it, and take care, and have a great day. Bye for now.
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